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Sport climbing on Josh-like rock not too far from campus.
Relevant Guidebooks & Maps
Rock and Ice #61 - May/June '94
Take I-10 east to I-15 north. In Victorville take either Bear Valley Cutoff (more stoplights) or Hwy. 18 (D Street) East. Most of the climbing is right where Bear Valley Cutoff merges into Hwy. 18. To get to The Pecker in the Desert, continue on 18 east until Lucerne Valley. In Lucerne Valley take "Old Woman/ Hwy. 247" east until Camp Rock Road. Turn left (north) on Camp Rock Road. Camp Rock will become dirt. 8.6 miles after the junction of 247 and Camp Rock, turn right on a dirt road under the power lines. After 2.9 miles turn left - look for a rock cairn pointing left. Don't turn on the many spur roads before the 2.9 mile mark. Rough road will bring you to the Pecker.
Apple Valley has some excellent and relatively unknown climbing. The routes are quickly growing and no guidebook covers them yet. The best bet is to grab a copy of Rock and Ice #61. OTL should have several copies of the article. At the main area, called Deadman's Point, many routes can be done. Split Pillar has a classic 5.8 as well as 4 5.11's. The 5.8 is just to left of the split in the rock on the arete. Roof Rock has a fun 5.8 and some good 5.10's. The left 5.7 and 5.8 as described in Rock and Ice no longer have bolts and require tricky pro. Excellent bouldering can be found below Roof Rock by the dirt road. The Pecker in the Desert (called Hercules' Finger in R&I) offers some of the best but most isolated climbing in the area. Follow the directions out to the Pecker if you have a truck. The amazing Pecker fits its name and offers some great arete climbing up its sixty food pillar. The Pecker has 4 bolted routes. The 5.7 on the north side offers an easy way to the top. The south side has a great 11c and 12c which can be lead or top-roped after leading the 5.7. Deep Creek Hot Springs are not far from Apple Valley. To reach the springs take Bear Valley Cutoff west and turn south on Central Rd. Central brings you to Roundup Wy. between Kiowa and Bowen Ranch Rd. - see "Deep Creek Hot Springs" for directions from Roundup.
Apple Valley is very undeveloped, so plan on being self-sufficient. Don't stray onto private property, you can jeopardize the access of the crags and risk getting shot at.
Edited by (in order): OTL Staff, OTL Staff
Last updated: 05/22/2009