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Climbing right off the beach in beautiful Malibu.
Relevant Guidebooks & Maps
Climber's Guide to Southern California.
From Claremont take I-10 West all the way to Santa Monica. I-10 turns into PCH (1) North (don't take 1 South exit). Drive through Malibu. After passing Pepperdine and leaving the city, turn left on Westward Beach Rd. This is just before Zuma State Beach and after Kanan-Dume Rd. Follow Westward Beach Rd. as it turns South. Park at the end of the road. The climbs are on the obvious North-facing cliff at the end of the beach. Point Dume can also be reached by taking 210W to 101W and heading down to PCH via Topanga Canyon.
The perfect class-skipping location. There are 4 climbs at Point Dume. The face has several climbs, all about 5.8. The arete (Southwest corner) is a fun 5.6. These climbs are bolted, and several lines are possible, but the anchors should be backed up off the large boulder because the salty air corrodes the bolts. Around the corner is a fun toprope (5.10b) on the West face. Anchor off the two boulders and throw the rope down the slot behind the higher boulder. The climb begins in ugly, weather rock, but moves up to a fun, slightly inverted face with funky holds. Follow the chalk up under the prominent roof and then undercling while traversing to the right. Belay off to the side because this climb can be loose, especially if the climber is off route. The top can be reached by hiking up the trail to the left of the main face or up a loose trough on the opposite (South) side. It is rumored that a nude beach is on the South side of the cliffs. This area is popular and it can be difficult to get climbs at on the weekend. Bring a small carpet or extra towel for the ropes and to wipe shoes off before starting the climb. A camera is a must as well - the photos of climbing above the Pacific are unreal. Leaving before sunset is also a crime. Considering the traffic coming home at rush hour, it is best to relax until dark and then grab dinner in Malibu before fighting traffic.
The climbing can be slippery with the ocean mist nearby. The bolts are also said to be unsafe due to corrosion. Bring long webbing to back up anchors off the large boulder. There may also be a rip tide so swimming out is not advised. Loose rock is an issue on the West Face.
Edited by (in order): OTL Staff
Last updated: 05/22/2009