New Jack City
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Great sport climbing. Easy approaches, wonderful climbs, apocalyptic landscape, range from 5.8 up to the 5.13s. Within two hours from campus.
Relevant Guidebooks & Maps
Southern California Sport Climbing Guidebook
Unless you have been here before, you SHOULD NOT GO WITHOUT THE GUIDEBOOK! If OTL does not have the guidebook, it is available at REI, at any climbing stores, or many climbers on campus should have it and would most likely be willing to lend it out.
Follow directions IN THE GUIDEBOOK or else you WILL GET LOST.
210 to 15 east, exit Barstow Rd (247). Travel for 20 miles (ish) and turn right onto a dirt road. Review the directions in the guidebook for this turn. It is a bit tricky to know where it is exactly. After the right turn onto the dirt road, stay left at all the forks and you will arrive at the climbing rocks shortly.
The dirt road is somewhat rough. Lower clearance cars are OK as long as you drive the road smartly and slowly.
This is a favorite sport climbing destination in southern california and a must-go for anyone interested in climbing outdoors. It is especially good for the winter months when everywhere else is too cold for climbing.
Top anchors are all bolted and routes are well-maintained. Routes are, for the most part, well-protected. Some routes will require more than 10 quick draws.
There are a plethora of routes. Use the guidebook to find the walls you want to climb. They are all within walking distance of each other, so moving from route to route is very easy.
The Boy Scout Wall is perfect for beginning sport climbs. the routes are obvious, fun, and easy (three 5.8s, two 5.9s, and a few 5.10s...if I remember correctly). They are long enough to be interesting, have some fun moves, have a comfortable and safe belay spot, and are all well-protected.
For the more experienced climber, Welcome to New Jack City (5.10b) is a classic and is rated 4 (or 5?) stars. Espresso (5.10c) is also great if you like overhanging climbs, and the Hueco Wall offers some more delicate, balance climbs(mostly 5.11s).
DO NOT LEAD BELAY UNLESS YOU ARE TRAINED!
Lead climbing in the gym is much different from lead climbing outdoors. If this is your first time outside, MAKE SURE YOU HAVE AN EXPERIENCED OUTDOORS LEAD CLIMBER WITH YOU TO INSTRUCT!
Do NOT attempt anything that you have not been thoroughly instructed on how to do!!
A trip to this destination should ONLY be led by an experienced outdoors lead climber with at least one other experienced lead climber. If you are leading a trip here, be sure to give good, clear instruction on the equipment you are using, the belay devices and how they work, and the techniques of sport climbing.
Edited by (in order): Cristina Masurat
Last updated: 05/28/2009